How to start retinol: the science and simple rules
What retinol does, how long results take, how to start without irritation and who should be careful.
AuthorDr. Aygun MustafayevaAesthetic dermatologist, dermatovenereologist and trichologist
Retinol is a vitamin A derivative and one of the most studied skin care actives. In the skin it is converted into retinoic acid and affects cell renewal and collagen production. But it is a strong product: started the wrong way, it causes redness and peeling, and people give up saying "it doesn’t suit me".
What the science says
In a randomised study, when a 0.4 percent retinol lotion was applied to the skin of older people for 24 weeks, fine wrinkles decreased and an increase in collagen-forming substances was seen in the skin’s inner structure. So there are results, but they take months, not weeks.
How to start
- Start with a low concentration
- In the first weeks, use a pea-sized amount on clean, dry skin 2-3 evenings a week
- Increase the frequency gradually as the skin gets used to it
- Apply a moisturiser on top, and avoid the eye area and the corners of the lips
- Sunscreen in the morning is a must: skin using retinol is more sensitive to the sun
When to be careful
- During pregnancy and when planning one, agree on retinoid use with your doctor
- With eczema, rosacea or very sensitive skin, ask for advice first
- Do not combine it with strong acid peels on the same evening
- If redness and burning get worse, take a few days’ break
Retinol makes more sense together with daily sunscreen: a randomised trial showed that using sunscreen every day slows skin ageing on its own.
Scientific sources
The information in this article is based on the peer-reviewed papers, systematic reviews and clinical guidance below.
- Kafi, R., Kwak, H. S., Schumacher, W. E., et al. (2007). Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol). Archives of Dermatology, 143(5), 606-612. [PMID: 17515510] | [DOI: 10.1001/archderm.143.5.606]
- Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., et al. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical Interventions in Aging, 1(4), 327-348. [PMID: 18046911] | [DOI: 10.2147/ciia.2006.1.4.327]
- Hughes, M. C., Williams, G. M., Baker, P., & Green, A. C. (2013). Sunscreen and prevention of skin aging: a randomized trial. Annals of Internal Medicine, 158(11), 781-790. [PMID: 23732711] | [DOI: 10.7326/0003-4819-158-11-201306040-00002]
